Draught-Proofing in 60 Minutes

(A quick-win guide to making your home warmer today)

If your home feels cold in winter, draughts are often part of the problem. Small gaps around doors, windows and hidden areas can let in cold air and allow heat to escape, making rooms feel uncomfortable even when the heating is on.

The good news is that you don’t need a major renovation to see an improvement. In many homes, draught-proofing in 60 minutes can make a noticeable difference to comfort by reducing unwanted airflow and helping warmth stay where it belongs.

This guide breaks the process down into simple, manageable steps you can work through in about an hour. It focuses on the areas that usually make the biggest difference first, using low-cost materials and straightforward checks - no specialist tools or experience needed.

Whether you live in a newer property or an older home, tackling draughts is often one of the quickest and most satisfying ways to make your home feel warmer.

Before you start: what draught-proofing actually does

Draught-proofing helps stop uncontrolled cold air coming in and heated air escaping. It improves comfort immediately, and it can reduce heating demand, especially in older homes.

Important note: You still need ventilation. The goal is to block unwanted gaps, not seal the house shut. Kitchens, bathrooms, and rooms with open flues need safe airflow.

What you’ll need

You can do most of this with:

• Self-adhesive foam or rubber door/window seals

• A door brush strip (or draught excluder sausage)

• Letterbox brush

• Keyhole cover

• Silicone sealant (optional but useful)

• A few basic tools: scissors, tape measure, screwdriver

The 60-minute draught-proofing plan

Minute 0–10: Find the draughts

Start with the areas that leak the most:

• Front door (edges + bottom)

• Back door

• Letterbox

• Keyholes

• Window frames

• Loft hatch

• Any unused chimney/fireplace

Do this:

Look for visible light

If you can see daylight coming through around door frames, window edges, letterboxes, or loft hatches, cold air can usually get in through the same gaps.

Watch curtains and blinds

If curtains or blinds move slightly when windows and doors are closed, especially on a windy day, that’s often a sign of air movement rather than just temperature difference. Pay particular attention to the sides and bottom of windows.

Use your hand to feel for airflow

Slowly run your hand around the edges of doors, window frames, and skirting boards. A steady cool sensation or “stream” of air usually indicates a draught.

Try the tissue test

Hold a piece of tissue or lightweight paper near suspected gaps. If it flutters or pulls towards the gap, there’s air movement that’s worth addressing.

Check at floor level

Draughts often come in at low level, especially in older homes. Pay attention to gaps around floorboards, under doors, and near external walls.

Minute 10–25: Front Door - The Biggest Win

Front doors are often the largest single source of draughts in a home. Even small gaps around the frame can let in a surprising amount of cold air, especially on windy days.

Do this:

Add adhesive seals around the door frame

Check the sides and top of the frame for visible gaps when the door is closed. Self-adhesive foam or rubber seals are easy to fit and help create a tighter seal without affecting how the door opens or closes.

Fit a door brush or draught strip to the bottom

Cold air commonly enters under the door. A brush or rubber strip fixed to the inside of the door helps block this gap while still allowing the door to open smoothly.

Add a letterbox brush

Letterboxes can act like a direct channel for cold air. A simple brush cover on the inside of the door can noticeably reduce cold blasts, especially in exposed properties.

Use a keyhole cover

It might seem minor, but keyholes can let in a steady stream of cold air. A small hinged cover is quick to fit and often makes more difference than people expect.

Pro tip: Close the door onto a thin strip of paper. If you can pull the paper out easily, the seal isn’t tight enough and could benefit from adjustment or replacement.

Minute 25–35: Back Door & Patio Doors

Once the front door is sorted, move on to any back doors or patio doors. These are often used less frequently, so worn seals can go unnoticed.

Sliding patio doors

Sliding doors can be particularly draughty if seals have worn over time. Sometimes a simple seal replacement is enough to improve comfort. If the door rattles slightly in windy weather, that’s often a sign air is getting through.

Minute 35–50: Windows (Without Spending a Fortune)

Even modern double-glazed windows can let in draughts if the seals around them have worn or failed over time. This is especially common in older installations, or in homes exposed to wind.

Do this:

Replace or add self-adhesive seals to opening windows

Check around the edges of opening windows for flattened, cracked, or missing seals. Replacing these with new self-adhesive rubber or foam strips can significantly reduce draughts and is usually quick to do.

Use temporary draught-proof film in particularly cold rooms

If one room always feels colder than the rest, clear draught-proof film fitted over the inside of the window can help reduce heat loss. It’s a low-cost, seasonal solution that can be removed when the weather improves.

Seal small gaps around window frames if needed

If you feel air coming through gaps between the window frame and the wall, a small amount of flexible sealant can help. This works best for fine gaps rather than larger structural issues.

Gaps in seals can also be checked as part of an air-pressure test

Minute 50–60: Loft Hatch and “Hidden Gaps”

These are the gaps many people overlook, and they’re often some of the leakiest. Because warm air rises, even small openings at high level can allow heat to escape quickly.

Do this:

Loft hatch

Loft hatches are a frequent culprit. Adding a sticky foam strip around the edge helps create a better seal when the hatch is closed.

Pipe gaps under sinks and behind appliances

Where pipes pass through walls or floors, gaps are often left unsealed. Filling these with sealant or suitable filler can reduce cold air entering the home.

Gaps around skirting boards

Small gaps between skirting boards and floors or walls can allow draughts, particularly in older properties. A flexible filler can help close these without cracking over time.

Floorboard gaps (older homes)

In properties with timber floors, gaps between boards can let cold air rise from below. Rugs and good-quality underlay are a simple way to improve comfort without major work.

What About Chimneys?

If you have an unused chimney or fireplace, it can act like a large open vent to the outside, letting cold air fall directly into the room.

A chimney balloon or draught stopper can significantly reduce cold air entering the home and often makes an immediate difference to comfort.

A warmer home doesn’t always start with a new heating system

Draught-proofing is one of those rare upgrades that’s cheap, quick, and genuinely satisfying. If your home feels cold even with the heating on, this is one of the best places to start.

Know someone whose home always feels a bit chilly?

Forward this newsletter to them - a few simple draught-proofing fixes could make their winter much warmer.

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Draught-Proofing: Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if draught-proofing is actually working?

You’ll usually notice the difference quickly. Rooms should feel more comfortable, cold “spots” near doors and windows should reduce, and there should be less noticeable airflow on windy days. Over time, your heating may run for slightly shorter periods to maintain the same temperature.

Can draught-proofing really make a difference in just an hour?

Yes. Focusing on the biggest problem areas first, especially external doors and obvious gaps, often delivers the most noticeable improvement. Many people are surprised how much warmer their home feels after sealing just a few key draughts.

Is draught-proofing suitable for all homes?

Most homes can benefit, whether they’re older or newer. Older properties often have more obvious draughts, but even modern homes can suffer from worn seals or poorly fitted doors and windows. The key is targeting unwanted gaps while still allowing proper ventilation.

Will draught-proofing stop my home from ventilating properly?

No, as long as it’s done correctly. Draught-proofing blocks uncontrolled airflow, not essential ventilation. Kitchens, bathrooms, and rooms with open flues or fuel-burning appliances must still have adequate ventilation. Avoid sealing vents that are designed to stay open.

Do I need professional tools or experience?

Not at all. Most draught-proofing tasks can be done with basic DIY tools and low-cost materials. If you can measure, cut, and stick, you can handle the majority of fixes outlined in this guide.

Is it okay to draught-proof windows if I have double glazing?

Yes. Double glazing reduces heat loss through glass, but draughts often come from worn seals around the frames. Replacing or topping up these seals can improve comfort without affecting the window’s operation.

What’s the most common mistake people make?

Over-sealing. Blocking chimneys that are still in use, covering ventilation grilles, or sealing rooms that require airflow can cause moisture and safety issues. If in doubt, focus on obvious gaps around doors and windows first.

Will draught-proofing lower my energy bills?

It can help. By reducing heat loss, your home should hold warmth more effectively, meaning your heating doesn’t have to work as hard. Savings vary depending on the property, but improved comfort is almost always noticeable.

What if I’m renting?

Many draught-proofing measures are renter-friendly. Door sausages, temporary window film, letterbox brushes, and removable seals can all improve comfort without making permanent changes. Always check your tenancy agreement before using sealant or screws.

When should I consider something more than draught-proofing?

If your home still feels cold after addressing draughts, it may be worth looking at insulation levels, heating controls, or overall system efficiency. Draught-proofing is often the first step, not the last, in making a home warmer and more energy-efficient.